I ordered an ignition switch on Ebay from a junkyard & it came in today.
$15 + shipping = 19.50. Contacts and solder connections looked great, so it
should last a long time.

I'm glad I took the time to compare it with my old one before installing,
because the connector which plugs into the fuse pannel was wired
differently. I'm guessing it was for an automatic, & mine is 5 speed. It
seems kindof wierd to me that honda would wire them so completely
differently.

My 5 sp -------------------------------
| NC W/B NC |
| Y B/Y |
-------------------------------
Auto? -------------------------------
| W/B NC B/Y |
| NC Y |
-------------------------------

Getting the leads out of the connector wasn't easy, and I had to relocate
all three wires, but I guess it only took me about 45 min. First remove
white spacer insert, then wiggle and worry each lead loose with a small
screwdriver in the center side of connector. Thats the tough part. -
reassembly is easy and quick.

I'm going to try an dress up the contacts on my old switch again, but i
doubt I'll need it again - at least not for this car.

Jim

Still can't get pitted area on old switch to take solder. I'm using rosin
core solder with flux, but no go. BTW, it's a lead free flux - but the
only flux available @ local hw store if that makes any difference. I'm not
an expert on soldering by any means, but - would acid core stick - or
has metalurgy changed to where nothing will work? I no longer need this
switch, but would like to be able to repair it for practice and my own
curiosity.

Jim

jim L wrote:
> Still can't get pitted area on old switch to take solder. I'm using rosin
> core solder with flux, but no go. BTW, it's a lead free flux - but the
> only flux available @ local hw store if that makes any difference. I'm not
> an expert on soldering by any means, but - would acid core stick - or
> has metalurgy changed to where nothing will work? I no longer need this
> switch, but would like to be able to repair it for practice and my own
> curiosity.
>
> Jim
>
>
suspect you need a higher wattage iron. those are big fat copper cables
- they suck heat like crazy.

"jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
news:fMadnVd_eY6IPHzVnZ2dnUVZ_o3inZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
> jim L wrote:
>> Still can't get pitted area on old switch to take solder. I'm using
>> rosin core solder with flux, but no go. BTW, it's a lead free flux -
>> but the only flux available @ local hw store if that makes any
>> difference. I'm not an expert on soldering by any means, but - would
>> acid core stick - or has metalurgy changed to where nothing will work?
>> I no longer need this switch, but would like to be able to repair it for
>> practice and my own curiosity.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>>
> suspect you need a higher wattage iron. those are big fat copper cables -
> they suck heat like crazy.

I have a weller gun - I'm sure it has plenty of wattage. Solder sticks
fine to the good metal on the contact - but it seems to avoid the pitted
area. I've scraped it with a file & pick. then again - it may be my
technique.

"jim L" <jtl57@bellsouth.net> wrote in
news:svhEk.50842$XB4.26606@bignews9.bellsouth.net:

>
> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
> news:fMadnVd_eY6IPHzVnZ2dnUVZ_o3inZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>> jim L wrote:
>>> Still can't get pitted area on old switch to take solder. I'm
>>> using rosin core solder with flux, but no go. BTW, it's a lead
>>> free flux - but the only flux available @ local hw store if that
>>> makes any difference. I'm not an expert on soldering by any means,
>>> but - would acid core stick - or has metalurgy changed to where
>>> nothing will work? I no longer need this switch, but would like to
>>> be able to repair it for practice and my own curiosity.
>>>
>>> Jim
>>>
>>>
>> suspect you need a higher wattage iron. those are big fat copper
>> cables - they suck heat like crazy.
>
> I have a weller gun - I'm sure it has plenty of wattage. Solder
> sticks
> fine to the good metal on the contact - but it seems to avoid the
> pitted area. I've scraped it with a file & pick. then again - it
> may be my technique.
>
>
>

the gun may have plenty of wattage,but the iron's TIP size will not
transfer enough heat to such conductive terminals.
A plain old 60W iron with a 1/4" chisel tip will do much better.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Thanks Jim Beam & Jim Yank - you were both right.
I was leery of putting too much heat to contact - especially before I got
spare. Thought I might melt the plastic in the housing & end up with a
useless mess, but re-flused & held iron over pitted area untill solder on
good area melted & flowed in to fill. After filing, contact looks like new.
I guess I could have saved myself $20, but I'm ok with it & a little better
at soldering now. I even filled in the back side where the lead attaches to
the switch. Doesn't quite look like the factory solder - but close. I'd
warrantee it for 5 years.

Thanks again

Jim
"jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
news:fMadnVd_eY6IPHzVnZ2dnUVZ_o3inZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
> jim L wrote:
>> Still can't get pitted area on old switch to take solder. I'm using
>> rosin core solder with flux, but no go. BTW, it's a lead free flux -
>> but the only flux available @ local hw store if that makes any
>> difference. I'm not an expert on soldering by any means, but - would
>> acid core stick - or has metalurgy changed to where nothing will work?
>> I no longer need this switch, but would like to be able to repair it for
>> practice and my own curiosity.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>>
> suspect you need a higher wattage iron. those are big fat copper cables -
> they suck heat like crazy.