Car is 1995 Accord with AT, odometer reads 155,000. Actual mileage is
about 170,000 since the odometer died at 155,000.

Car starts only with the pedal pressed. According to Tegger’s site we
have leaking injectors.

I am going to clean EGR passage (check engine light is on) and the
fuel rail along with injectors will come off. How do I deal with
them? Is it possible to clean/repair them, or do I need to buy new
ones? Will I be able to tell which one leaks?

Thanks in advance,
Sam

somick wrote:
> Car is 1995 Accord with AT, odometer reads 155,000. Actual mileage is
> about 170,000 since the odometer died at 155,000.

easy enough to repair - get the parts from a junk yard.


>
> Car starts only with the pedal pressed. According to Tegger�s site we
> have leaking injectors.
>
> I am going to clean EGR passage (check engine light is on) and the
> fuel rail along with injectors will come off. How do I deal with
> them? Is it possible to clean/repair them, or do I need to buy new
> ones? Will I be able to tell which one leaks?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Sam


whatever you do, do NOT try to physically clean those injectors - use
liquid injector cleaner with the fuel and that will solve your problem.
you may need two tanks, but it will work. use a quality cleaner, not
cheapo stuff.

in the future, don't buy discount gasoline. not only will you not have
injectors gum up like this, you'll get better mileage because an engine
with cleaner internals is more efficient.

somick <sam.libman@gmail.com> wrote in news:abe31b29-fdde-4b3e-8573-
03cb093f8e50@j68g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:

> Car is 1995 Accord with AT, odometer reads 155,000. Actual mileage is
> about 170,000 since the odometer died at 155,000.
>
> Car starts only with the pedal pressed. According to Tegger’s site we
> have leaking injectors.



Any more details to offer? What you've given so far is way too skimpy.



>
> I am going to clean EGR passage (check engine light is on)



With what code? This is not trivial, you know.

Is this a V6 or an L4? I'm guessing a 4.



> and the
> fuel rail along with injectors will come off. How do I deal with
> them? Is it possible to clean/repair them, or do I need to buy new
> ones?



Do not buy new injectors. They cost close to $300 each for OEM. Keihin
injectors do NOT go bad.



> Will I be able to tell which one leaks?


Only if you push them back into the rail and visually see if they leak.

Lay a towel down on the manifold. Place the rail on the towel with the
injectors installed into the rail (tie them well in place so they don't pop
out! 40psi fuel pressure! BIG mess!). Turn the key to "II" for two seconds,
then turn it to "0". Do this several times in succession. Any gas-smelling
dark spots on the towel that appear to come from the pintle area?


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Tegger, you rock!
>
> With what code? This is not trivial, you know.

I guess I rushed to judgment!!!

The car belongs to my son and the EGR trouble code was just passed on
to me. I tested the system on Wednesday but did not find anything
wrong.

I was going to read codes myself but with 102 degrees outside I just
quit.

I will read codes this weekend and report back.
>
> Is this a V6 or an L4? I'm guessing a 4.

Sorry, forgot to mention it. Yes this is 4 cylinder.
>

>
> Do not buy new injectors. They cost close to $300 each for OEM. Keihin
> injectors do NOT go bad.
>
> > Will I be able to tell which one leaks?
>
> Only if you push them back into the rail and visually see if they leak.
>
> Lay a towel down on the manifold. Place the rail on the towel with the
> injectors installed into the rail (tie them well in place so they don't pop
> out! 40psi fuel pressure! BIG mess!). Turn the key to "II" for two seconds,
> then turn it to "0". Do this several times in succession. Any gas-smelling
> dark spots on the towel that appear to come from the pintle area?
>
I will do that.
> Tegger
>

Thank you, again!

I will post back as soon as I get more information.

Sam

>
> whatever you do, do NOT try to physically clean those injectors - use
> liquid injector cleaner with the fuel and that will solve your problem.
> you may need two tanks, but it will work. use a quality cleaner, not
> cheapo stuff.

Thanks for advice.

This car belongs to my son. He used Chevron with Techron and said
that it helped a little. Do not really know what that meant.
>
> in the future, don't buy discount gasoline. not only will you not have
> injectors gum up like this, you'll get better mileage because an engine
> with cleaner internals is more efficient.

Well, I cannot promise that. Like I said this car belongs to my son.
This car was mistreated as much as it only possible: no maintenance,
no oil changes, you name it...
I guess it is still on the road only because this it Honda...

somick <sam.libman@gmail.com> wrote in
news:63562876-48aa-44bc-b04a-8302b42433d9@b1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com:

> Tegger, you rock!
>>
>> With what code? This is not trivial, you know.
>
> I guess I rushed to judgment!!!
>
> The car belongs to my son and the EGR trouble code was just passed on
> to me. I tested the system on Wednesday but did not find anything
> wrong.
>
> I was going to read codes myself but with 102 degrees outside I just
> quit.
>
> I will read codes this weekend and report back.
>>
>> Is this a V6 or an L4? I'm guessing a 4.
>
> Sorry, forgot to mention it. Yes this is 4 cylinder.
>>
>
>>
>> Do not buy new injectors. They cost close to $300 each for OEM.
>> Keihin injectors do NOT go bad.
>>
>> > Will I be able to tell which one leaks?
>>
>> Only if you push them back into the rail and visually see if they
>> leak.
>>
>> Lay a towel down on the manifold. Place the rail on the towel with
>> the injectors installed into the rail (tie them well in place so they
>> don't pop out! 40psi fuel pressure! BIG mess!). Turn the key to "II"
>> for two seconds, then turn it to "0". Do this several times in
>> succession. Any gas-smelling dark spots on the towel that appear to
>> come from the pintle area?
>>
> I will do that.
>> Tegger
>>
>
> Thank you, again!
>
> I will post back as soon as I get more information.
>
> Sam
>
>



I should point out something rather important that I just remembered...
You might not have leaky injectors at all, but instead a fuel pump with
a faulty check valve. A bad check valve allows fuel pressure to bleed
off back into the tank over time, resulting in low fuel rail pressure on
cranking.

Try this test before pulling everything apart:
1) Turn key to "II" and leave it until Check Engine light goes off
(2 seconds), then turn back to "0".
2) Repeat this five or six times in quick succession.
3) Try to start the engine.
Does the engine now start normally? Then fuel rail pressure is probably
bleeding off too fast, and you need to have a fuel pressure leakdown
test done.

If the above test has no effect, then do the towel test. And use soft
wire to tie the injectors in place. You can get cheap rolls of soft wire
at Michaels (the craft store your wife shops at) in the beading section.
The beading section is at the front left side of the store (can you tell
I'm married?).

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Checked the code. Now I know where the confusion came from:

I got 8 blinks. They looked short to me. My son most likely mistook
them for long ones. How would long blinks differ from short ones?

8 long blinks - code 80: EGR system malfunction.

8 short blinks - code 8: Top Dead Sensor position sensor.

As far as I understand this is a bad distributor. So the question
is: Could the bad distributor cause flooding conditions?

Second question is: if I am correct and this is a bad distributor, is
it possible to fix it or do I need a new/rebuilt one?

Thank you all,

Sam

somick wrote:
> Checked the code. Now I know where the confusion came from:
>
> I got 8 blinks. They looked short to me. My son most likely mistook
> them for long ones. How would long blinks differ from short ones?
>
> 8 long blinks - code 80: EGR system malfunction.
>
> 8 short blinks - code 8: Top Dead Sensor position sensor.
>
> As far as I understand this is a bad distributor. So the question
> is: Could the bad distributor cause flooding conditions?
>
> Second question is: if I am correct and this is a bad distributor, is
> it possible to fix it or do I need a new/rebuilt one?
>
> Thank you all,
>
> Sam

no, won't affect the injectors. and usually, the car won't start if it
doesn't know where tdc is - the ecu can't sequence the injectors.

go back to injector cleaner, make sure the plugs are in good condition,
along with the rest of the ignition system, /then/ worry about the egr
system, a much more likely and common fault on older accords.

"somick" <sam.libman@gmail.com> wrote
> Checked the code. Now I know where the confusion came
> from:
>
> I got 8 blinks. They looked short to me. My son most
> likely mistook
> them for long ones. How would long blinks differ from
> short ones?

If you think they are short ones, then they probably are by
Honda's definition of "short" too. I would call the short
blinks more like quick flashes.

> 8 long blinks - code 80: EGR system malfunction.
>
> 8 short blinks - code 8: Top Dead Sensor position sensor.
>
> As far as I understand this is a bad distributor. So the
> question
> is: Could the bad distributor cause flooding conditions?

From my reading, I sure would not rule out a bad TDC sensor
for your Accord's symptoms. Especially if the code clearly
is 8 short blinks. The TDC sensor determines injector timing
for each cylinder.

I would next do the resistance and continuity checks of the
sensor per
http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...N700.pdf?flv=9

> Second question is: if I am correct and this is a bad
> distributor, is
> it possible to fix it or do I need a new/rebuilt one?

Your Accord is old enough that a new distributor housing
(not a whole new distributor) may very well be warranted.
The distributor housing holds the TDC, CYL, and CKP sensors.
Better news is that a new housing may fix both the start
problem and any low fuel mileage problem your Accord is
having. My sense is that these sensors either wear (in
particular, the coils they use to operate) or get very dirty
over many years and do degrade in performance over time. A
whole new distributor housing will run you around $300 at
online OEM parts sites. You have to move the cap, rotor,
igniter and ignition coil from the old distributor to the
new one. If you are handy with cars, it is not too bad a job
the first time.

If you go this route, buy only OEM parts here. I am frugal
and learned the hard way they pay for themselves.

Also: I replaced the fairly famous bearing in the housing of
my 93 Civic's dizzy a few weeks ago, rather clumsily on the
first attempt. Specifically I messed up the alignment of the
CYP sensor's coil and reluctor, and my Civic threw a code.
It ran, but the code was there. On a hunch, I re-aligned the
sensor and was able to get rid of the code. In your case, I
think it's possible something is actually broken, like the
TDC sensor's coil.

My 91 Civic's original dizzy housing pretty much gave up the
ghost (a number of symptoms suggesting it would be prudent
to change it) after 12 years.

Checked TDC sensor according to the FSM. It has 27 kilohm instead of
300 ohm. I apparently need a new distributor housing.
I am still not ready to shed 300 dollars, but in doubt there is
anything else I can do. Majestic's Honda price is $258 plus shipping
is cheapest I was able to find.

I will let everybody know what happens next.

Thanks for help,

Sam